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BLASTERPARTS BLOG
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Friday, 20 September 2019

Friday, 20 September 2019

Optical Modding: Integrations, Attachments, Custom Parts

The optical enhancement of blasters is one of the two core areas of the modding scene. In this series you will learn the basics and some tips and tricks.

If you decide not to leave a Blaster in its original form, but to rebuild something, there are some things you should keep in mind.

Accessibility

The accessibility, on Blasted.de traditionally also called „openability“, is an important factor for successfull modding. No matter what you do, the goal should always be to still be able to open the Blaster after a modification. Blasters are toys that are commonly used and where plastic toys are used things break. If something just shifts or if an important part breaks, blasters have to be opened for repairs and especially if you modded yours, you don’t want to risk not being able to do any repairs.

Durability

You shouldn’t be cheap when it comes to the durability of your mod. Nothing is more annoying than a cool project that breaks after a short time because you glued cardboard to the blaster with hot glue.

The easiest way to change the look of a blaster is to use fitting attachments from the manufacturer or a third party. Especially for Nerfs there are an lots and lots of attachments, but also a lot of body kits to make a blaster look more like real steel. An example would be the injection moulded MP5 kit from Blasterparts.

But if the perfect prefabricated part doesn’t exist, you can just make many things yourself or take them from another Blaster.

Integration

The most practical parts for mounting are mostly pieces of other blasters (especially in terms of accessibility) from the entire toy and softair range. You simply cut the parts off a blaster you want to keep and combine them with parts of other blasters.

Example:

There are, of course, an infinite number of things that can be used or repurposed. Here I would like to give you a small overview of materials that I think are very helpful for modding.

Superglue for joining plastic parts. (Use disposable gloves!)

2-component epoxy putty for sturdy joining of parts that cannot just be glued together. The fast curing one for rapid working (5 minutes), the slow one for maximum durability (24-48 hours).

Plasticard 1-5mm thick to close holes and build your own enclosures. You can also use plastic remains from broken things. If available also with surface structure.

Milliput/Apoxi Sculpt for aligning edges and closing joints/holes/gaps.

Styrodur as a stable but lightweight core for larger new builds (e.g. shoulder stocks). Caution: Styrodur is not compatible with many adhesives and colors and will be dissolved by them. In case of doubt, a layer of adhesive tape will help.

Hot Glue for quick fixing and to try out stuff.

Personally, I usually do this by joining different parts of the case together from the outside with small amounts of hot glue. If I’m satisfied, I’ll join them together from the inside with 2K epoxy putty. After that I’ll remove the hot glue from the outside and conceal and embellish the transitions from the outside with Milliput/Apoxy Sculpt or by glueing on stuff.

After we’re done with the shell, we’ll tackle the paint job next in part 3 o this series.

Author: SirScorp

Get now your own Nerf Zombie Strike Doublestrike and other Blasters on Blasterparts.com!

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